Photography in our age of digital technology has become so affordable that even a child can shoot. No need to exercise, nor to fix or implement a host of other specific actions. And the quality is not worth very worrying: it is enough to have a good digital camera, and please, enjoy the bright colors, pictures of loved ones.
However, despite the bright, high-quality images, one problem still remains – the content. Any picture can be simply reflections of environmental nature, and may carry a highly artistic beginning. Where is the line between true art and conventional fixation of meaningless events? Picture only becomes a work of art, when, instead of just pictures of events and people begin to process the facts of life in the images. When what is photographed alone, it becomes interesting to many. Any images, including art, primarily associated with the movement. Often we talk about images as of stopped a moment, but very often pictures do not appear to be suspended in them as if there is movement. On good photographs and they say – they are dynamic – photos in motion. Of course, the dynamics is not the only factor in the artistic merits pictures, but quite affordable and feasible for virtually any beginning photographer.
So how do you do dynamic images? Dynamics of the plot can be transmitted, for example, fixing a certain point motion, which most clearly reflects his. It’s usually shooting climaxes of a plot. For example, a man of small stature comes to the hanger to remove the cap. Here he is reaching out – early! Here it is stretched at full length – sooner! A hat hangs quite high, people standing on tiptoe, his hat touches his fingertips – “Click!” – And a dynamic image is ready!
The effect of motion can also create a basic shift in subject matter away from the center of the frame so as to remain in front of a moving object space. This space will create or enhance the illusion of movement.
When shooting dynamic subjects must be aware of the background. If he is sharp, then the motion in the picture will look retarded. In contrast, blur the background enhances the dynamics. Upon reaching such an effect needs to move with the same speed with which the object moves, take some pictures and choose the most dynamic.
Any way in any kind of art is always thorny. In order to ascend to a higher level in the photo, you must first take the first steps in learning the secrets of mastery. And these first steps can be performed with the performance of dynamic images. If your photos is a movement, it means that there is life. And then we can talk about the highest manifestation of motion – the motion of the human soul.
Preface
Online meeting text about the concert photos, I am struck by the number of “water” and a minimum of practical advice in these articles. And these “tips” are reduced to the obvious things:
* “In concert, there is bad light”
* “Catch the moment – objects are moving”
* “Look for interesting angles”
All this and so it is understandable. All this follows logically from the concept – “live picture.”
That’s why I decided to write this article. I want to tell you about the practice of recording concerts and how to really become a concert photographer, namely:
* How to get accredited photographer.
* How to remove musical performances.
* How to Handle concert photos.
How to get accredited photographer.
If you want to do some really interesting photos of musicians – accreditation as a photographer at the concert needed. In small clubs, and you may be able to get close to the stage, but on large sites without accreditation do not succeed. Yes, and a serious photographic equipment for the concert, as a rule, no accreditation will be carried by.
In fact, to get official accreditation to the concert is not difficult. There are many ways to do this, I will tell you about the most simple and accessible to anyone who has a desire to withdraw.
On the Internet there are a lot of “music news agencies,” or more simply just sites that publish reviews of albums, reports from the concerts and so forth okolomuzykalnuyu information. And very few of them – it is really the edition in the fullest sense of the word, ie paying decent fees journalists and photographers who have a permanent staff, etc. Typically, these publications – the famous “brands” in the media market and the website for them only an appendage to the paper version of the magazine.
Most online music publications work on the “enthusiasts”. Photographers and journalists working there either gratuitously or for a very meager royalties. But that’s why these sites are interesting to us and, in fact begin to cooperate with the publication of any person who really wants to shoot and has at least a small portfolio reportage shots.
How to do it?
I will not name names of Internet publications. Just because I know that many editors tend not to advertise how to build work in their publications. And if you really want – a simple search on Yandex you easily find a dozen such sites.
To begin write letters to the editors of several similar publications to offer cooperation. Of course, if you attach a letter to the examples of your work is a chance that you will respond immediately increase a lot. Then, most likely, they’ll give you a couple of test “targets” and if you coped with them, then more will have a normal partnership, you are able to “calling” to shoot musicians that you find interesting or editor will occasionally offer you shoot yourself. Accreditation for the concert itself, usually engaged in editor, you’re gonna be just informed when and where to visit and how you recorded in the lists of the press.
Such cooperation has its pluses and minuses.
The main positive point – is that all rights to the photograph remain with you. For publication on the site most often need only “thumbnails” of small size, original photos and all rights remain with you. That means you can sell these photos in a “serious” newspapers and, if lucky, get a good fee. Also the case that particularly great shot of fans want to buy.
The main disadvantage of such cooperation (except for the fact that you do not pay) is that at some concerts do not get accreditation. For example, at the concerts of world-class obscure publications give accreditation is extremely rare.
But in any case, cooperation with the Internet edition is a very good option for a young photographer. In addition to experience shooting pictures in the portfolio, you get a lot of new acquaintances and, over time, the dating will bring you new clients and employers.
How to remove musical performances
Of course, the very subject matter of “how to shoot” is very broad and deserves a separate article. But so far try to tell about the key moment of capture.
Arrangement
One of the most simple and effective compositional techniques with live footage – it is working with diagonals. Ie kopozitsionno when the object is located along the diagonal lines in the frame. When shooting rock concerts this song very often help to build two things:
Guitar fretboard stretching into the upper corner of the frame – a classic concert photography, which will never cease to be relevant.
To the delight of photographers, many singers have been actively moving on stage, giving the opportunity to build an interesting picture.
Removing the rock-punk-metal music is very important to convey the dynamics in the frame. You can use this compositional device:
Compositionally musician “coming out” of the frame. And it creates a sense of dynamic action.
But what happens when an artist is not “drive” music? Actions on the scene a little, the actor stands in one position. Then we can try to build the track, not only on the artist, but also placing in the frame stage lighting, as part of the composition:
In some cases, this technique works well:
Frame is built precisely on the artist, it is desirable to see more in the shot there was nothing distracting attention – other musicians or mottled background. While certainly all depends on the particular situation and the actor. For example sometimes in the frame can include an element that stands out from the usual concert merchandise – it may just make the frame more interesting. As in this case with “skull”.
Working with light
It is sad, but it was on the stage of light depends largely on what frame you get. No matter how well you do not “catch the moment” and build the track – a bad stage lighting will ruin it all. If a musician performs at major venues (such as the Olympic), and especially when working with them a good light directors – the problems usually do not happen. But when the band performs in a small club or work light directors is not as such … then a chance of making an interesting photograph is nearing zero. In my memory was a case where the presentation of one group in the club B-2 musicians performed without any stage light. The lighting was just the usual lamps illuminating room … But it is rather an exception, usually it’s not that bad.
The biggest problem of small clubs in that light there is not just weak, but the “monochrome” (I’m not expert in light of the terms, if anyone knows the name of such a light – albeit correct me). It turns out that the whole scene is filled with, for example, faint red light. As a result, make an interesting color or black and white photography is very difficult – picture is boring. There is one trick that may help you “paint” the picture. Try while shooting “dress” to the outbreak of a small plate of translucent color film or plastic, that is, do in fact an ordinary color filter. And then the light from your flash to add color to the dull lighting.
Note on the flash
Many concert photographers do not work with flash. In my opinion this is not correct. The flash is a working tool the photographer. And they should just be able to use. Of course, if the “peel” flash in the forehead with no good will come. But often, the flash can work well as an additional source of fill light. Try to reduce the flash output to step two and send it a bit at an angle to the stage – sometimes a simple trick can make the picture much more interesting.
Try it, experiment and I’m sure you’ll be pleased with the result.
Total points shooting
I think, to talk about shutter speed and aperture settings, a few pointless – you know which settings are suitable in each case, making a couple of test shots. Let me just say a few things:
* Often the concerts there is a choice between the noise and “blur” the image. Here of two evils to choose a smaller – noise. Since them, you can then partially removed during processing, but the blurred picture is much more difficult to fix. Therefore it is always better to put more ISO, rather than increase the shutter speed. Of course you need only raise the ISO if you’re already shooting at a maximum exposure for himself, at which the picture is not blurred.
* If your camera does not always equal to adequately work with the auto white balance, it’s wise to clearly define the mode, for example, «cloudy» – then color all the photographs will be obtained about the same.
* A very useful thing in the concert photos – monopod. A tripod is too cumbersome and highly constrains your actions. Monopod – a light and simultaneously provides good support while shooting. This is especially true when shooting large festivals, where after several hours of continuous operation appears banal physical fatigue. Although the monopod – a thing “for the amateur, there are photos, which is important total freedom camera in hand. At this point everyone chooses for themselves.
* Try to catch the moment when a musician comes close to the edge of the scene and photograph it with a lower angle. This will add “power” musician in the frame, such as in this photo:
How to Handle concert photos
Treatment in concert photography is especially important. At the concert, all photographers are working under the same conditions and the only way to make their work really stands out from hundreds of frames of other photographers – this is an interesting and high-quality treatment.
The main rule – always shoot only in RAW. About the programs for processing RAW files can be read in my article ‘Professional Processing RAW ». Here I will tell you about the main features of the concert is processed.
There are two types of processing concert photos – fiction and reportage. From reportage processing all clear – it is often batch processing, when the important qualitative result when a large amount of training. The essence of treatment is usually reduced to a simple paper with the colors (saturation, white balance), exposure, sharpness and noise. Quite a standard set of simple steps. Write about them here, in my opinion, does not make sense – this is already written not one article.
From an artistic treatment is much more interesting. Its essence is in the artistic presentation of the material when the task – to make a beautiful and interesting picture, but the work is individually on each frame.
Relatively speaking, the entire treatment process can be divided into three main parts:
* Color
* Light
* Details
Working with Color
The main problem when working with flowers – to make them “tasty”. That is, the colors should be harmonious, pleasing to the eye. In concert photography is especially important because very often in concert lighting is ruining all the colors. I’ll try to give you an example:
At this concert spotlights “thrashed” the yellow-orange teries, in fact just killing the color.
Most of the work carried out over the color in Adobe Lightroom, after a little fine-tuning in Photoshop. The main stages of work in Lightroom:
* To partially get rid of the orange-yellow flowers – reduces the color temperature of images, making it colder. Then reduce the color saturation.
* Slightly raise the contrast and brightness. Greatly raise the setting Fill Light – thus lightening the background in the photo.
* Then comes the individual work with the colors: deep red and orange to raise the maximum, and the saturation of yellow on the contrary – reduces to a minimum.
Working with the configuration of Luminance colors: red and yellow lift to maximum lift orange half the red and yellow.
That’s it.
We got the colors that they wanted. Then they can be slightly refined in Photoshop, but the basic process colors, we did it in Lightroom.
Here is another very telling example of working with flowers.
When competent work with flowers “delicious” image can be made from almost any photo, even when shooting conditions were far from ideal.
Sorry to tell in detail about all the ways of working with flowers in this article, the place is not enough … And it’s not about this article … The main advice I can give you – this experiment. Just change the color settings, shadows, saturation in Lightroom, and eventually you learn to do these colors, what you need. But Lightroom is good because it allows relatively simple to carry out such experiments.
Working with light
The biggest scope for working with light and shadow, of course, gives a B / W photo. Simply because when you change the settings of light and shadow, we can not follow the changing colors in the picture. This gives us a big advantage – we can make a strong contrast, individually darken or brighten up any area of the picture. To work with B / W I also encourage you to do basic processing in Lightroom, and Photoshop is individually brighten or darken the image.
But to start experimenting with simple things – such as the contrast B / W images, with proper treatment can get a very interesting result:
It is a detailed treatment of photographers often pay little attention. But through working with the details you can significantly improve picture and make it more interesting. Machining is most conveniently done in Photoshop, here are a few examples of what can be done simply and quickly:
* Try to focus on the eyes. This is a very effective method, and if you took a close-up musician can, for example, just a little lightening eyes and eye area, if it be in the shade. The main thing – do not overdo it. The best treatment – which is not visible, it must be completely harmonious with the whole picture. If done correctly – something simple to work with the Dodge tool immediately focuses the viewer’s attention to the eyes of a musician and will add photos of expression.
* Increase focus. There are two simple techniques that give very good results
o Increase the sharpness of the working Lightness channel color space Lab. This allows you to sharpen with a minimal amount of color noise. A detailed guide how to do it, you can easily find on the Internet.
o Not necessarily add sharpening to the entire picture. To avoid unnecessary “noise” can sharpen only the “key” places the frame – eyes, hands on the fretboard guitar, strings, visible items of clothing. Make it very simple – there is such a tool History brush, you can ask her to “draw” any processing time, which is in your History working on a photograph. What does this leave us? We can apply sharpening to the entire image, specify the History Brush work from this point on History (when we applied a filter sharpening), return to the History ago (that is, when has not yet been applied sharpening) and just paint with a brush on the sharpness of the picture!
* If you increase the sharpness of the most notable places the frame – it will create in the viewer the illusion of sharpness throughout kartinki.Esli you need to remove the noise, do it through a special plug-ins. The most popular of them – Neat Image and Noise Ninja. Quality of their work at times exceed built-in noise removal in Photoshop.
Unfortunately, in this article, I do not have the opportunity to write in detail about the processing of photographs – it would require too much space … Yes, and article received quite a different story. But most important is to understand how important treatment. If you want a really beautiful and interesting concert photography – the ability to handle you need.
Shooting Press Conference
Separately, I want to say a few words about the press conferences. Periodically removing the concerts, you’ll get at the press conference of musicians. Photographers often pay little attention to shooting pressuh, making the usual reportage, photography protocol. In my opinion this is not correct, since it is at the press conference you have the option to make an interesting portrait of the artist. Here are some examples of portraits made by me in press conferences:
The most difficult thing when shooting portraits at the press conference – to make interesting art photography in color. Since lighting pressuhah usually leaves much to be desired and get beautiful color in the photo (which is art photography), it is very difficult.
But successfully filmed a portrait of the artist can be a very high demand. So portrait Grebenshchikova magazine “The Bear” bought on the cover of facilities, and more recently publisher ACT has offered to buy a photo for the cover of Vassiliev his books (at the time of writing, negotiations with publishers).
Therefore, remove, process, and maybe you get a very interesting result. You should not get hung up on “protocol” shooting …
A few words on the downside
Unfortunately in Russia concert photography earn nearly impossible. I’m talking about the stable high income, rather than ad hoc fees. The fact there are lots of reasons, ranging from trace amounts of printed music to the lack of the very music industry itself. So what if you think you earn big money concert photos – most likely you are very disappointed.
But if you just like music, live performances by musicians and you are interested in trying to shoot concerts – then go ahead, most importantly the desire and will succeed.
Aperture – the size of the hole in the lens. (Probably already seen the pictures with the lens aperture device – with a sort of petals. However, it does not matter).
The larger hole (smaller number) the less the DOF.
Wide aperture (large hole) – for example, 2.8 – a small depth of field
The narrow aperture (small hole) – for example, 16.0 – great DOF
Average aperture – for example, 5.0 – Average Depth of Field
If you want to select an object sharpness, and everything else do not sharp – it is necessary to reduce the depth of field (ie, reduce the aperture).
Excerpt. In theory, I think here too is clear. The shorter – the more short moment of life can capture.
Exposure time is longer than the 1 / f facing shake (when wiggling the camera smudges image on the picture).
Sensitivity (ISO). Everything is simple, because now it’s just semi-mythical setting in a digital camera.
Rule – the smaller the ISO, the better. At high ISO the picture there is more digital noise. Put to the smallest possible value, eg 100. Increased only as needed in low light.
Now, about juggling all three parameters. Consider a shooting on the street. While nothing is talking about the flash and shoot in a room, simply remove the camera on the street. Getting Started with ISO. We put a minimum value, because the street is usually enough light.
Here’s a rule to be added in the firmware of the brain and this firmware as soon as possible to program. Typically, oddly enough, is simple. Specifically – when shooting outdoors on a sunny day set the shutter speed equal to ISO (or film speed, if you have a film camera).
Immediately example. Stands ISO 100 – hence, we put the camera shutter speed of 1 / 100 sec. Aperture at the same time 16. This must remember! That’s just remember myself pronouncing: “The sun is one hundred sixteen.”
“damn, he said that the figure put such a diaphragm is useless, and here at you!” – You say and rightly so. Because the next step will be a creative definition of the diaphragm for a specific image.
Example. This landscape .. sharpness should be on the bushes foreground and horizon. Means necessary aperture 8 (a rather narrow aperture – a fairly large depth of field). Our goal now – to pick up the shutter speed, which is suitable to the diaphragm 8. It’s easy. Begin to sort out “ekspopary:
1 / 100 – Aperture 16
1 / 200 – Aperture 11
1 / 400 – Aperture 8
. . . . . . . .
Do not carp at what the camera is no shutter 1 / 400 sec. Surely there is 1 / 320, that’s it and place, and then understand. (Those who are now screaming about the gradation of the usual type of exposures 125, 250, 500, let the shouting and put 1 / 500, but we originally digital camera, and we understand the theoretical truth).
Do not forget that we are still going about the sunny weather and the outdoors. I think at this stage is useful to once again play the camera in aperture priority or shutter priority, and to understand again what ekspopara. Got it? Now imagine that you’re shooting a portrait with sunshine and decided that he needed the diaphragm 4 to select only the person’s face. What will be the excerpt?
(Otvet. ongoing series ekspopar:
1 / 400 – Aperture 8
1 / 800 – Aperture 5.6
1 / 1600 – diaphragm 4 – here it is!)
Dismantled one-sided situation, because you do not just shoot in sunny weather. Therefore, we make amendments to other weather. At one time it was made fun of r / and “Change”, there were painted symbols of weather. So the next step will be parsing the weather.
So, once again the rule:
(X – set the camera’s ISO sensitivity or film)
extract = 1 / X
Select the aperture:
16 – Sun
11 – in the shade from the sun
8 – the sun hid light cloud
5.6 – in the shadow of the sun, which closed the light cloud
4 – Clear
2.8 – Cloudy
2 – full well …
In extreme cases, it is recommended to use the built-in light meter chamber.
To summarize.
Action when shooting outdoors.
Let us consider an example.
Baselines – the sun behind a cloud, the plot requires a small depth of focus, ISO 100.
Solution. Define the initial ekspoparu – ISO 100, so shutter speed 1 / 100. Lighting – the sun behind a cloud, then the diaphragm 8.
Submitted ekspopara 100 / 8. The plot requires a small depth of field, then seek the widest aperture. Iterate:
100 – 8
200 – 05.06
400 – 4
800 – 02.08
If the last couple of suits, then set the shutter speed 1 / 1000 and aperture 2.8
Homework.
When shooting outdoors in the priority mode shutter speed of 1 / X, pay attention to what you recommend the camera. Remembers the state of nature in the figures. Over time, begin to fix themselves weather forecast for the aperture value and be able to tell us the weather in your town in one figure.
Shooting in a church? Subtle question when you hold your digital camera inside the church…
I will not talk about the ethical aspect. But there are moments in life that I would like to capture a souvenir – a christening, wedding. The situation is very difficult for a photographer, he feels insecure. As a result – incorrect selections shooting, bad camera angle, a trembling hand.
I poked around the forums, but found not so much information. Discussion of this topic is in the network, but they are rapidly becoming a wordy discussion at regional topic. Nevertheless, some grains of the photographic sense, screened out from the husk, present to your attention.
Shooting photos at a church. Can or can not? How to Photograph?
If you have something to say in addition – please. But only – specifically.
The first group of frequently asked questions:
1. How to behave in church?
2. Who to ask permission to shoot?
3. Can I use a flash?
4. Can I remove the parishioners and the ceremony itself?
5. Can I move to church or better to stand somewhere realities in the corner?
Answers.
1. Must behave well. Respect.
2. The priest or his assistant. But in order to win, be sure to ask before taking the blessing of a shooting.
3. Flash is better not to use! Regardless of whether or not to allow my father. But often when shooting in the church may be appropriate cross filter!
4. Better not. Or at least make it so that no one you have not seen and not heard. People go to commune with God, this is a very intimate moment. His foto pretense you can break this bond.
5. During the ceremony, you can move, but not intrusive, and do not in any way to walk between the priest and the iconostasis!! It is best to move to reduce to a minimum!
I understand that the general rule – can or can not take pictures, with flash or without – does not exist in every church can have their orders.
Another typical question.
On Saturday, christenings. I will shoot. For the first time. Shooting non-profit, for the relatives. But I still do not want to do a lot of marriage. Share your tips and features shooting in a church? Particularly interested in the tactics of flash photography. Waiting for advice. Thank you.
Answer number 1
Explain to family that she is such a thing as a sacrament.
It is clear that due to ignorance of the population going to the church was fun, but still …
If you still feel itchy – then no bursts. Piglet with a shutter speed of 1 / 60.
Reply number 2
I shot on film with a Nikon 50/1.4 lens, the film is ISO 400. Flash did not apply. Aperture 1.4 and 1.8 was. 72-frame 2 smear. Background is not a failure, because the flash is not used.
In addition I want to add your experiences: try to be that the window did not fall into the background, otherwise it gets out of the light.
Comment of the author question
Went down, took off … Well, here you have inflated it all: mystery, no flares, entertainment … First, no one entertained there are other roads. Second, observing the elementary rules of conduct, you can shoot without problems, including WITH FLASH!
If you are interested, then shot with a flash all the time. Just in the church where I was, well, very much dark. Yes, the flash on the forehead, the image is flat. But the bully ISO above 400, too, did not want – sticks out a strong digital noise. Therefore, and used the flash.
It turns out it’s better than without it with 1.6-1.8 aperture and shutter speed 1 / 30 – when these options are very much blurring.
I took pictures in the “M” with the parameters of f/5.6, shutter speed 1/60-1/90. If the emptiness behind your subject, then the background dips (too dark). However, you can get around the other side and shoot in this perspective, when the background is close, but also highlighted, albeit dimly.
So do not exaggerate the problems of filming in churches. Remove quietly, silently, without the hassle of priests under his feet … That’s the whole secret.
How to take pictures at night
By night’s shooting is understood shooting architecture, landscapes, views of the city, the night sky …
Do not consider shooting girlfriend Masha night at the door with a flash. Portraits in low light conditions are generally better than trying to remove by conventional methods.
Immediately scatter two myths inspired by the marketers.
The first myth. For shooting in the dark need fast lens.
That’s not true. Fast lens is not required. We can not say that he is for night shooting is not necessary – high-aperture lenses in most cases done better and give a sharper picture. So if you have it, that’s fine. But for night shooting is quite good and normal lens. Again, I will not say “any”. Focal length lens (wide angle, telephoto or universal) is chosen in taste and composition.
The second myth. Need a camera for which you can deliver more value ISO.
Too true. For shooting night scenery great sensitivity to install is not necessary. Quite enough values of 50, 80, 100.
Necessary equipment.
# It will work almost any camera that can work out the bulb. The cameras is denoted by “BULB” or “B”. (If it is not clear, then read the instructions to the camera)
If your camera does not have mode “B”, you can use the mode “M” (manual mode), it allows you to set shutter speed in a few seconds.
# A tripod is necessary. Of course, for the first time you can do without it, using the means available in the form of bars of the fence, stone parapets and Knuth, Tripod does not have to choose from online stores, and come into the store and touch it. Likely have little to increase the proposed budget. The cost of the tripod is composed of the most stand (legs) and head. Head is directly “planting” a mechanism for the camera. The heads come in different designs. In our case fits any head and average weight of a tripod.
Monopod (one-legged tripod) at night is useful except that for defense against enemies, for night shooting, he does not fit.
And yet, do not buy pocket tripods in the shops of mobile phones. Pay attention to the tripods Manfrotto, Gitzo, on a limited budget and look at the Slik Unomat.
# The cable release. Use any: mechanical, electronic wire, wireless infrared and radio. The main thing that your system could work out the slow shutter speed. If the rope is not – okay, go around without it.
Usually more of a technology does not need anything.
Selection of the proper exposure.
As already mentioned, we use low values of sensitivity (ISO).
# Translate the camera in manual mode M.
# Set the lowest ISO (eg 100)
# Set the aperture 8 or 11. (That’s why we do not want fast lens).
The only option that will steer – it’s an excerpt. Exposure time we will have a fairly lengthy. Why?
First, the dark.
Secondly, quite sandwiched diaphragm 8, 11 – for a sufficient depth of field.
Thirdly, ISO 100 for low noise.
All this will create eksponometricheskuyu predisposition to a long exposure.
So now it becomes clear why we need a tripod. At night shooting shutter 10, 20, 30 seconds – a common occurrence.
Thus, we have in place. Camera mounted on a tripod. The composition is defined. All presets are satisfied. Now we must determine the necessary exposure. Exposure can range from seconds to 120 seconds. Therefore, we recommend first shot to make a “step test”.
Should be guided by the following values:
At ISO 100 and aperture 11
- Night City – 60 sec
- Evening town in “sensitive time” (what it is – see below) – 1 sec.
Make a sample roughly: 2 sec, see the result on the display chamber. Depending on this result itself: dark / light choose new shutter speed – 1 sec or 4 sec. And so on. After three attempts to even the novice will find the correct exposure.
Is not recommended to use the built-in light meter chamber. Meter – the thing necessary and useful. But using the meter at night is only possible with proper experience, because at night it gives a very specific meaning.
Correctly found the shutter speed will be even more true for half an hour in the evening and 1-2 hours at night. After that, it is desirable to adjust the shutter speed.
After a few evening outings and you will get an understanding of the issue excerpts, so I do not talk about the spread-out in the long red lights pasta machines, cables from the stars and saucers UFO.
Some observations about the pro auto focus.
Do not force it. Put the camera in manual focus mode. In general, everything is a day when shooting landscapes. To add a little volume, the focus leads to some object, located at half the distance to the farthest object. And not to infinity!
If it is difficult to manually visit, then turn on auto-focus, catch this very average object, turn off the AF and no more twist.
This yields a maximum depth of field.
Everything that is written in this paragraph is valid for clamped to 8 or 11 of the diaphragm, because with the open hole landscapes are not removed, and the strongly closed up 16, 22 and more in today’s digital cameras do any good and does not only lowers the sharpness.
Now a little about the details.
Tested by time and experience many hours of the most successful photographers shooting night landscapes and cityscapes. This time, about 30-45 minutes after sunset or before sunrise. This is a “sensitive” time. Time is precious by the amount of light from the sky and artificial lighting. Almost all of the Booklet and advertising photography night city are made at this time. It was at this time are equally expressive will look the sky and light, and the sign “milk” fallen into the frame shop.
Night mode for beginners
When the “sensitive” time has gone, the night time comes and contrasting images (yellow specks of light on a black background). In each strip, and at different times of the year “sensitive” time is different. Watch for the natural environment and, even without a camera, will enjoy this period of human existence smile
And the last. I hope most of you already appreciate the advantages of shooting in RAW. Night shooting a must-carry in the RAW! During the conversion, note not only the contrast and sharpness, but also to white balance. Play around with different color temperature, even the most extreme values can give a stunning effect.
Sunset does not differ from the sunrise. To distinguish from a photograph the sunset from sunrise to impossible. Therefore, all the same, that shoot – sunset or sunrise.
On the Internet there are lots of discussions, the possibility to distinguish the sunset from the dawn of the photo. Experts say that at the end of the day dust in the air longer, so the sun and the entire picture looks a little redder than during daylight. Theoretically, this is so. But one micromovement in Photoshop, this nuance can be easily distorted.
Therefore, in most cases the photo sunset is no different from the sunrise.
There is one exception – it’s foggy. As a rule, there is fog at sunrise, not sunset. Therefore, the picture hazy sun over the horizon is perceived by the audience as the sunrise.
The fog can be simulated in Photoshop, but it will be a surrogate, which is fairly easy to recognize. Although not necessarily from this picture is going to get worse.
It is better to shoot sunsets than sunrises. Here’s why:
* As already mentioned, the picture does not tell the sunset from sunrise (exception – the fog)
* Do not have to wake up before dawn and trudge somewhere to sunrise
* Shooting the sunset is more predictable.
The last point – the most important, so I will explain it.
You always see in advance exactly where the sun will sit down at sunset. Therefore, for 20-30 minutes before sunset you can pre-select a suitable background for the sunset or entourage.
From sunrise – much harder. Until the sun has risen, you can not accurately predict the point of occurrence. When the sun appears over the horizon, most things are not as you hoped. Then you begin to frantically run around and look for a spectacular shot – whether against a tree, or reflection in the water, or a suitable blade of grass. And the expense in time of sunrise is not for a minute – literally seconds! You do not have time and gasp as the sun had already left the ground, jumped up – and all the effect of dawn began to decline sharply.
If you think you have a beautiful sun at sunrise in itself make a successful photograph, disappoint you – it is not.
For two reasons.
First, just one rising / setting sun in the frame – it’s dull and hackneyed plot. This picture does not pull a good shot – only to sketch, nothing more.
Secondly, a digital camera instead of a romantic sun you will always get a nuclear explosion. Just such a property of the matrix. The explosion set off the necessary elements of the landscape that make the brain the viewer to believe that this is indeed the sunrise / sunset, and not testing near Semipalatinsk.
(To cure the ills there are a few medications, but they are all associated with a more or less elaborate further processing in Photoshop).
When you can not photograph the sunset instead of sunrise?
* As already mentioned, if you want to photograph the morning mist
* If you want to rent a huge reflection of the sun low in the river or the sea, and the only way – is in the morning, at other times the sun just is not in the right place.
Practical conclusions
1. Want to shoot a sunset or sunrise – sunset shoot. It is more convenient, more predictable and can always be issued for the photograph of sunrise, if needed.
2. If you want to call sunset photo “Sunrise” – you can safely do so Smillie
Of the glands and glass
When photographing the sunset (and rising, too) of the sun are essential two “iron” moment:
1. How steep the camera itself.
This is probably one of the few scenes where the owner of expensive equipment is a serious handicap to the “state employees”. Why? Because top-end camera matrices have a greater dynamic range. These cameras can transmit more gradations of brightness, and they photographed the sunset will be much less similar to the unromantic nuclear explosion.
Naturally, this does not mean that owners of low cost cameras can not shoot beautiful sunsets.
Quite the contrary!
Where the holder or owner of Canonical Pyaterochka Dvuhsotki just stupidly squeezes the trigger, nothing particularly do not care, the owner of budget cameras forced to slightly stretch the imagination (not too much – to the extent-measured Lord of the ordinary amateur photographer). The result – a much less banal picture than the owner of an expensive carcass.
2. Which lens is put on - “Wide” (10-35 mm), universal zoom (24-80 mm) or telephoto (150 mm or more). The results will be dramatically different (who would have thought!)
About Shirikov (“wide”).
It is my deep conviction that a wide angle lens is not suitable for shooting sunsets and sunrises. A huge piece of the sky in the photo, and blood-oshechnoe microscopic sun somewhere over the horizon – like a picture viewer particularly exciting. Therefore Shirikov can safely set aside.
I do not know about you, but I do not like this photo. Boring, banal. Although I photographed myself. Everyone at intimidating am
About versatile zoom.
Here it is quite suitable for shooting pictures of spectacular sunset, but only at the long end (65-80 mm). At short focal lengths as a result it is no different from the wide angle – a large field of the frame and tiddly bead sun. But on the long end it is quite good, and the focus can be in the sun, and on very close objects, making the sun is strongly out of focus. About this I have to tell, but so far only two examples will illustrate.
(Universal zoom 28-75, the sun is “nearly in focus”)
(Focus not on the sun, but on close objects)
As you can see if the sun does not focus, and vice verse, especially defocus, you can get an interesting effect.
About a telephoto lens.
Telephoto allows you to take the most “delicious” stories – where the photographs great sun, just like actually winked Therefore, if you want to impress your friends photos of sunsets – the easiest to do this with a telephoto. The longer the focal length of the lens, the larger will be the sun, the stronger will be the photo to act on the uninitiated.
One of my favorite telephoto lens – domestic Rubinar “production Lytkarino. He has absolutely incredible figure, a very large focal length – 500 mm, and still completely imputed price – about 3500 rubles (plus or minus). The truth behind all this fun you have to pay full manual focusing.
A small retreat for the owners of Consumer digital cameras.
Try to at least send the camera lens at the sun – no matter the day or sunset. Consumer Digicam In light of the sun is directly on the matrix and eventually burn it, the image quality decreases. DSLRs not have this drawback – they are covered by a matrix of a mirror, pointing going through the eyepiece and not burn out the matrix, and the fellow eye
In the latest models Consumer Digicam have regimes where guidance is also an eye through the eyepiece, the matrix in this case is disabled. These compacts also can shoot the sun without restrictions until zaryabit in his eyes.
Speaking of eyes.
Argued that the way the photographer can spoil your vision. My personal experience suggests otherwise. I often shoot sunsets for several years now. Navozhus eye through the eyepiece. Clearly, looking at the sun gently, squint, trying not to look for a long time. Nevertheless, almost always part of horseflies working eye for some time. However these never shooting did not lead to any long-term consequences. Rather, it feels worse than the other eye, which I do not look at the sun.
So, what in the dry residue?
1. The longer the focal length – the spectacular sunset pictures are obtained (a large sun, unusual for amateurish pictures proportions).
2. Attempts to remove the sunset flaming polneba wide angle is likely to be unsuccessful. Photos and ten percent will not be so beautiful as the reality.
3. Rarely and briefly digital camera point the lens at the sun.
P.S. Finally – a few words about filters.
Photographing sunsets better without filters. Generally – no. Better even without a protective filter.
Why?
Firstly, polyarik. Polyarik against the sun, in principle, does not work. He works in a direction perpendicular to the sun.
Secondly, the gradient filter. Usually it helps to reduce the contrast between the bright sky and dark earth. But at sunset the contrast between the sun and the earth is too large, then gradient with its 2.1 feet can not cope.
Thirdly, the protective filter. In principle, the smallest of his injury, but still there. When the sun shines into the lens, dramatically increases the probability of occurrence of hares, glare, reduced contrast and other troubles. The more glass in the optical system, the more chances to get a picture of hares. And any filter – it’s too much glass in the lens.
The cheaper filter (same as – the worse the quality), the higher the likelihood of image degradation when shooting against the sun. It is not only patches of light, can decrease the overall quality of the picture.
There are also special “spectacular” or “artistic” filters – stellate, and all others. Frankly – never used, so I can not criticize or praise. In principle, they just may well beat any unnecessary glare.
How to focus your digital camera on moving objects?
Often trying to autofocus, press the descent, and the object was gone from the area of focus. Tell me how to shoot moving objects? Does this train on Photo courses?
How to focus on moving objects?
Solution 1.
Use a tracking auto focus.
Many digital cameras have mode “tracking focus” – AI Tracking. In this mode, the damper after the shutter button the digital camera automatically focuses on the subject and makes sure that focus was maintained code object is approaching or removed.
Look in the appropriate section of your camera’s manual. The principle itself is quite simple – if the object moves, the camera automatically tries to keep it in focus.
How to focus on moving objects?
Just do not forget to switch to a normal focus mode. Otherwise, during the next photo shoot you can get scared, when suddenly the lens itself begins to hum and change the focus.
Solution 2.
You can use manual focus.
Usually on the lens has a small switch (AF / M). “Normal” his position – AF, while the lens automatically focuses on the subject. If you put the switch to M, we have to focus manually by twisting the focus ring on the lens by hand.
How to focus on moving objects?
Suppose you want to rent a car (motorcycle, bicycle, runner) at the event. Choose a place of interest should drive the machine, manually focusing on some details (assuming that at the time of filming there will be an object).
In this case, you can temporarily turn on auto-focus, focus on the desired location and then switch to manual mode.
Wait until you get a car, take it to the frame, plavnenko leads up to the point where you were going to shoot. There, gently press the shutter release …
and continue to accompany the car on!
It is very important – to continue to accompany the movement even after pressing the trigger. Then the moment of shooting you are guaranteed hand will not tremble on snimkevse will smoothly and efficiently.
Solution 3.
Sharply turns out not only the point at which the focus, but all that is slightly closer or slightly further.
The size of this “little” depends on the size of the diaphragm. The larger the aperture (smaller hole), the greater depth of field. Therefore, holding the lens aperture, you get greater and greater depths of space, which will turn violent.
It is better to go to manual focus mode. You can also use automatic, but there is a risk that the rapidly changing situation in the frame of the camera “hook” for a foreign object, and not focus on that. Therefore it is better to do it manually.
In this case, is induced preferably not at the point of shooting, and a little further this point.
If there is an opportunity to do some test shots and it assess whether the depth of field is obtained – it would be generally healthy.
If the point of shooting hits the hyper focal distance, something about the focus can generally forget. But to calculate in my mind (yes though and on paper), the hyper focal distance for the amateur unrealistic.
Why the bee is out of focus?
On display picture camera often feels like a small masterpiece. But you download it to your computer, open on the big screen … and see what a masterpiece this is not explicitly drawn. Sometimes two consecutive shots made one good and one – poor quality.
Most often, complaints about one of the following disadvantages:
- General lack of sharpness
- No field on the main subject
What went wrong at the time of shooting? Go now, figure it out. This moment is long gone. However, not all so hopeless. You have the opportunity to return part of a bygone moment and analyze the parameters with which you’re photographed.
During a snapshot camera records the inside of each image file much information – so called EXIF-information. It includes the date and time a picture of how the camera shot, what lens (not always), what were the ISO, shutter speed, aperture and so much more.
This information can be found in Photoshop (menu File -> File Info …, in the opened window, select the left line of Camera Data 1). You can simply right click on the file and select Properties / Properties (most likely the data will not actually mind, but on some of the tabs).
There are plenty of programs that are specifically written to show this hidden within the photos EXIF-information, such as ShowExif.
What does the acronym EXIF? It stands for Exchangeable Image File. This text information, which is built into the picture and understood by all, more or less advanced program of work for images.
I send a lot of problem pictures. Let’s try a few examples to understand after the fact, the source of the problem.
Why picture blurred?
Here the complaint is the lack of sharpness on the faces of fellow
Person here I have deliberately disguised, but trust me – people look sharp enough.
To see the EXIF-information, open the folder containing the file, right click on the file and choose from the menu line of the Properties (Properties).
In the opened window, of course, in full view will be all the small stuff – the file size, creation date and so on. However, clicked on an additional tab on the Summary tab we are on some whim, click the Advanced button – well, somewhere there must have this information! – And find the desired one. (This is if you have – Windows. The users’ Macs quickly get to the information you need:)
Look … Hmm, translated into Russian by some curly, and sometimes even wrong. Nevertheless, try to use this information.
Why picture blurred?
First, consider the mode in which the picture is taken. Among all pretty unusual eye expressions find the line “aperture priority”. Some effort will understand that it must mean “aperture priority mode. Thanks to the translators angry
This means that the photographer put the camera in aperture priority mode – either by accident or on purpose. Why?
I suspect that he was guided by this logic: shoot a portrait, the portrait is recommended for a wide aperture, so I choose the aperture priority mode and personally put a wide aperture. I do not zabaluesh!
Look – indeed, aperture F1.8 (although, according to interpreters is another focal length. But I know that the designation of F1.8 – for the diaphragm, rather than the focal length.)
Okay. And what’s wrong did the photographer?
During the shooting was too wide open aperture – almost to the max (1,8). With such a wide aperture usually shoot portraits of facial close-ups where you can focus very carefully, for example, in his eyes, then they will get sharp.
One of the drawbacks of a wide aperture – a very small depth of field. Seemingly imperceptible shift the camera to polsantimetra back and forth can make the main subject sharp.
It seemed to me that here brought a camera in his hands, so they have turned more harsh than the person. Also note the left (for the viewer) armrest bench – he seems to have turned too sharply. That is, the camera brought the plane passing through the hands-armrest. And all that was slightly closer or slightly further already happened less sharp.
A second drawback of the most open aperture in the fact that so many high-aperture lenses at the same time begin to “soap”, giving unsharp image. This is typical of many lenses Sigma, Canon, and Nikon’s probably glasses.
Therefore, pay attention to the aperture, and try not to choose a value less than 3.5 (large values of the aperture – the smaller the hole, a large field). Wide aperture also can be used only try to understand – with a specific purpose – to blur the background, to soften a portrait, were forced to because it’s too dark, etc.
The following picture. Here again, complaints about the sharpness.
Why pictures are blurred?
All the more I will not use regular means Windows. Photographic information badly translated and even hidden away somewhere deep.
Therefore, the following image I loaded into Photoshop and select the menu item File-> File Info … In the window that opens, select the left line Camera Data 1.
Why picture blurred?
Also can not say that the information is on the mind, but in any case, correct and accurate.
We look at all options in a row. It is hard to hold on to something … except for one parameter. Exposure (Shutter Speed) – 1 / 12 seconds. This is not just a lot. This is – very long exposure when shooting handheld.
(Especially at a focal distance of about 100 mm, as shown by line Focal Length. But even if you do not know anything about the relationship of shutter speed and focal length, 1 / 12 seconds – it’s almost always – too long exposure to capture with it.)
At this exposure, if you’re not a sniper, it is very difficult to hold the camera exactly at the time of the shutter. Therefore, noticed a small grease from hand movement. This is particularly noticeable in the photos with lots of small details, like here. This little grease and gives the impression of total confusion.
Why?
As I see from the information provided, the camera was in aperture priority mode (line Exposure Program: Aperture priority.
Aperture – the diaphragm is:)
Either this option was chosen randomly. Either the photographer specifically chose this option. Most likely, the latter is true. Mode lets you select any aperture. The stronger the clamped diaphragm (the larger the number of stops), the sharper the image obtained. Apparently, the photographer wanted to get a very sharp image of the mass of small details in the picture. In fact, he acted properly.
But… Small hole in the diaphragm of a camera tried to compensate for a very long exposure to a picture not too dark. And check what do you get in this excerpt, the photographer forgot.
The result – the camera is set too slow shutter speed when shooting and has turned a little grease from the hand-shake. This lubricant is well seen if the larger picture.
What could be done to rectify the situation?
Firstly, we can feasibly open aperture (not set F/11, as, for example, F / 8 or even F7).
Second, you can set the ISO more – not 100, and 200. Or 400.
These actions will allow the camera to select faster shutter. Of course, not 1 / 100 second, as “required” by the theory, but much shorter, which will significantly reduce the grease.
A small summary.
So. In the absence of sharpness in the photo, you can try to “remember” the parameters with which it was made.
From dozens of different parameters in the first place we are interested in these two:
- Excerpt;
- Diaphragm
The problem is most often caused by two reasons:
- A diaphragm is too wide open (meaning F/2.8, F/2.0 or lower values). However, many lenses are beginning to “soap” in their design. It is also possible slight deviation photographer and fro – and the main subject off from the narrow-band GRIP.
- Or extract is too long (longer than 1/focal distance) – and it turns a light lubricant on the hand-shake or subject movement in the frame.
Branded programs provide additional information
Almost always in a box along with a camera is a CD or DVD with some proprietary software – the type converter Digital Photo Professional from Canon, Nikon Capture, or anything else like that. This software can be good, maybe average, but usually it has a useful function, which is not in Photoshop. These proprietary programs show at what point the tide began to camera at the time of filming.
In the photo, open the program Canon DPP, and below, blocky – a point which can focus Canon EOS 5D. One box – red, it means that the camera to induce the maximum sharpness is on the field. And all the other details of the plot – it’s how it goes.
Why picture blurred?
Therefore, if a bee on a flower you’ll have a diffuse, you can use proprietary software and see a bee or a camera focused on some debris in the background. And if so – then think about how well the next time do not drop a clanger:)
All variety of filters can be forced into the following categories:
1. Safety
2. Polarization
3. Neutral
4. Spectacular
5. Corrective (color).
Here I have listed them in order of importance for the amateur photographer.
That is, the protective filter (the type they are practically clear) – it is almost obligatory subject for the amateur photographer who takes on the host fat fingers, wet noses of pets, splashing rain, dust and stuff.
With protective filter is more or less clear. Besides the two shades.
Firstly, as a protective filters are often used “UV filters, UV cut-off component of the spectrum. It is partly, too, must be correct color pattern, but usually before the matrix is already worth an ultraviolet (Incidentally, the infrared too).
But this is so, just for clarification.
And secondly, it is very important to the quality of the filter. On the eye, they can be exactly alike. But the quality of the filter can greatly affect image quality, especially when shooting in challenging lighting conditions: under counter lighting, under lateral illumination, etc. Mostly, may suffer the contrast and sharpness.
How to evaluate the filter quality non-specialist?
I can offer two ways. The first – a firm’s reputation, reviews, knowledgeable people and a higher price.
At the hearing the following well-established company:
Schneider B + W, Hoya, Tiffen, Cokin – leaders (and prices bite)
Marumi, Kenko – too bad.
The second way to assess the quality – is the presence of enlightenment and the coolness of the enlightenment on the filter surface. Usually the quality of illumination coincides well with the quality of the filter.
The presence of enlightenment is marked on the metal rim of the filter. In ascending order of quality can be such characters.
1. Without the enlightenment – the worst. No special designations, except the name of the filter and the diameter of the thread.
2. Single-Coated (further shaped as letters SC or C) – a one-sided single-layer enlightenment.
3. Multi-Coated (MC) – on three layers of illumination from each side.
4. Super Multi-Coated (SMC, MRC) – six layers of illumination from each side
5. Super Multi-Coated Pro (SMC PRO) – for nine to twelve layers on each side
The price of filters may rapidly increase when moving from the top line to the bottom of the list.
And now – in more detail about one particular type of filters.
Neutral gradient filters
Here we will talk about how you can make your camera look at the world with fresh eyes. Of course, this can be done by buying a new lens. And another. And yet. As long as enough money in your purse, place in a photo bag and forces the body to carry it:)
But you can do less dramatic means. Only one filter, wound on a lens can give you the joy of the discoverer.
It is a gradient light filter – that’s so:
One half of its transparent, the other – shaded.
Often, when photographing the beautiful scenery have to sacrifice something: either get a whitish sky is overexposed and normal-looking trees and grass, or a beautiful sky with the sun and clouds, but a very dark ground of the photo.
Simple matrix camera can not accommodate the entire range of brightness daylight landscape. Now, if pritemnit bright sky … And here comes to the rescue that same gradient filter.
Of course, it’s not a perfect remedy. But given the simplicity of this tool, and not too high a price – it makes sense to get to their arsenal.
Oddly enough, I myself has not been able to buy it. Basically, because under my big lenses:) were not available filters required diameter.
Last weekend, I managed, finally, plenty enough of this Nemudrenye circle of glass.
First, it turned out that he really softens the excessive brightness of the sky and allows you to fit a greater range of brightness in one shot (who would have thought:)
(Next to the sun spots are visible – the traces of dust on the sensor. It’s time to clean).
Secondly, the clouds, if they are in heaven with this filter are much more expressive. If you do not shoot against the sun, then they can look at pictures and pearl, and threatening, and all sorts.
This is my photo bag there lying on the footpath:)
Third, at sunset, this filter allows you to get quieter, not as sharp and contrasting images that just convey a sense of calm and harmony of the sunset.
Fourth, this filter helps to make more interesting pictures, even in cloudy weather, when everything is usually obtained by a gray and expressionless.
The last picture I shot at sunset in the rain. Pink gleam in the clouds to the naked eye did not have much. Landscape is not possessed by shooting – as a rule, such sunsets cloudy nothing good turns.
But really wanted to test the new filter. (Actually – this is the first picture I did with it).
Of course, there is in this filter and cons:)
Sky darkens, yes. But all that protrudes above the horizon line – too darkens. If it’s yellow autumn tree, often it can be seen. Have in Photoshop and then lighten it specifically. (Note – at the photos, where you can see my photo bag on the footpath, trees on the right still dark, yes? “However, it is you just now noticed when I told you:)))
In addition, the horizon when shooting should be placed in the middle of the frame – where the border between light and dark halves of the filter. It’s not always convenient. We have to capture wider landscape (if the lens allows), and then cut off the extra processing.
But all this is tolerated or solved.
In winter, this filter should be used “upside down” – pritemnyat not the sky, and bright snow.
Many pictures of objects and still life done in vivo or in an environment that recreates life. However, there are situations where you do not need a distraction from the background object. Depending on the size of objects and on the effect that you are trying to get in the picture, the following items can serve you a good neutral background:
* Heavy cardboard: It is cheap, widely available and flexible. Choose a fairly long piece, so you can change its position when shooting. Then bend the sheet so that the bulk of it was vertical and the upper edge of the sheet went beyond the field of view camera. If the curvature of the cardboard is too strong, then changed gradation background. When shooting objects at close range, such as flowers, you may need a small sheet of colored cardboard. It can keep the assistant to isolate the subject from the distracting details in the background.
* Plastic laminate: It is widely known facing material is also flexible, but much more durable than cardboard, and you can use it again and again. It also comes in a variety of colors and textures. This material is available from the manufacturer or a large hardware store. Sometimes you can take unwanted residues from the construction site.
* The fabric background: Professional photographers use in the studio recording a variety of fabrics, from muslin to canvas, but you can also use linen, curtains and home. If you do not rush out and place them correctly, then you do not need to buy expensive items for creating backgrounds. You can even buy a muslin or canvas and paint them if you like the look of expensive backgrounds.
Use of artificial backgrounds can be eliminated when shooting with telephoto (135 mm and more) with a large “aperture (f / 1,8, f / 2, f / 2,8), which will create a pleasant natural background blur. This is a great way to isolate the objects from the distracting details of the situation. Generated effects – that is what distinguishes the pictures of many professionals who can afford to use large telephoto lenses with large aperture of the amateur photos using a wide angle lens or a full-time optician of his camera.
To dispel the directional light, which comes out of the window, you can use a sheet of white material or shower curtains. Sheet of cardboard can serve as a cheap reflector.