Transferring From Digital Camera to Computer

Everything that you are shooting with a digital camera, recorded on one or another type of removable memory cards. Storage devices for digital cameras vary widely in terms of volume capacity of information (from 32 megabytes to 4 gigabytes) and the technical implementation. There are memory cards – flash drives, and the tiny hard drives – micro drives. And they are both implemented in virtually identical cases and with the same connectors that allows camera manufacturers to easily support both types of devices. But they use this opportunity does not always (so pay attention to it, when to buy acquainted with the technical specification of your future chamber). The speed of the read / write these devices are different, though not in principle (in the range 10-20%). For those wishing to understand this thoroughly, we provide links to resources devoted to the speed of these devices, at the end of this chapter.

So, after returning from filming in your hands is a storage device (memory card, mikrodrayv or “digital wallet”), filled with photographs, which must now be transferred.

Please note that you may need a lot of space on your hard disk. To date, the size of RAW-file (why RAW, we will talk in another chapter), ranges from 4 Mb (for cameras Canon D30, Nikon D1x compressed) to 12 MB (Canon EOS 1Ds), so that when the regular shooting (200 – 300 frames every week – is still relatively small, given the ease with which these frames are made to “figure”) can easily be just a month to fill a disc capacity of 20 GB. But you’ll have to convert these files to 16-bit TIFF format (why a 16-bit, again we will talk about later), and sometimes even make a few options for converting a single image. For a good start is useful disk of at least 80 GB, and eventually you’ll have to purchase an external FireWire-drives for storage and backup of your images. We have currently total capacity of storage has already exceeded 500 GB and perhaps in the near future we will have to buy another external FireWire-drive …
Transferring data to a computer

Most modern cameras are equipped with USB interface and / or FireWire, through which images can be pumped from camera to computer memory. It may be convenient if you take only one memory card. If you have multiple cards, it is much more convenient to use a special card reader (card reader). If you use the “digital wallet”, then return home with the next edge of the world you connect it to your computer (again via the USB or FireWire interface), and grab everything that you’ve taken during the expedition.

How to move images from the card reader or “digital wallet” is quite simple. After connecting with you on the desktop icon appears new (external) disk, which you can simply copy to transfer files to your computer.

To you from drowning in an ocean of digital images, we advise you to adhere to a certain system of storing files. As an example, consider a system of storing files, which until recently enjoyed ourselves (on why “until recently” – below).
Directory structure (Mac OS X) directory structure (Windows XP)

All the files we decompose into directories that you can quickly and easily find them. The illustration shows the three-level directories:

* Original: here we publish all the images transferred from a camera or a digital wallet. ” Following the transfer, we directly copy the files transferred to an external drive or on a CD – otherwise we may mistakenly delete the wrong file or overwrite the original edited image (it will not allow to return to the original source, if you suddenly decide to change something in the processing of footage);
* Keep: put here anything that selected a result of viewing the footage and it makes sense to allow time for processing. Often come here are several versions of one frame taken with different exposure and / or lighting;
* Final: here we keep already processed images, which are to be printed or converted for publishing on the Internet.

Inside each directory is a sub whose names indicate the time and subject of shooting (sometimes – to the author, if the survey were a few people). Such a system is simple and requires no additional investment, you just need to develop guidelines for naming divisions and then follow them.

Unfortunately, when a large number of the footage (as with “with” material accumulates very quickly), even such slim naming system does not help.
The program interface iView Media Pro

And then come to the aid specialized programs that not only create a special “miniature” (thumbnails) for all photos, but also allow them to assign keywords and tags, organize and find – even if the originals are not already on your hard drive. We use one of these programs – iView Media Pro. Unfortunately, the full version of this program is available only to users of MacIntosh, and therefore we can not recommend it for everyone. But for users of PC-compatible computers, too, there are similar programs (eg, Portfolio from Extensis). At the end of this chapter contains links that allow you to choose one of these programs according to your own needs. However, if you shoot only occasionally, then you would be enough storage “in directories”, which was described above.

Once the files are stored on disk, they should be renamed – but so that their names remain unique. This can be done quickly and conveniently using the viewer (File Browser) to the new version of Photoshop (more on this see below). If you are using earlier versions of Photoshop (and why do you only use them? “), You can use a free utility for renaming files (again, see a list of references at the end of this chapter.)

Tips:

* Be sure to make backup copies of all files transferred to your computer
* Make backup copies of backups to CD or DVD
* Keep your backups in different places (for example, one set at home and another at work, parents, or at the cottage)

Once your data is transferred to the computer, sorted, and duplicated on another disk or a CD, you can reformat your memory card (or micro drive ) and start processing the images.

Matrix of Digital Photography Technology

In this chapter we will talk about specific features of digital cameras, which determine the characteristics of their use. We also talk about the fundamental differences between digital cameras from film, we explain the advantages and disadvantages of both.

Although we are not going to retell the content of textbooks in digital photography and dive into the depths of the theoretical – but still be prepared: entirely without technical details and other things, as the Americans say, “blah-blah-blah”, without, alas, will not work. But – do not panic: we are close to you, we will help you translate all this techno-soup in their native Russian language.

Ready?

First of all, it should be noted that the principle of creating an image the same, and a digital camera and film: both create a record of the subject using light energy, which affects the light-sensitive material. The main difference is that in digital cameras, light strikes the light-sensitive electronic sensor, and a traditional camera – on the light sensitive film. In addition, the process of obtaining images in digital cameras is going on right inside the camera (shooting, processing and preservation as a file to be moved), and in film inside the camera are only shooting, while the processing and preservation of the footage made, usually outside the chamber ( we do not think Polaroid film camera).
Technology

Matrix (sensor), remembers the image in a digital camera consists of an array of photosensitive cells. Each cell acts like fotoeksponometru: it generates an electrical signal proportional to the intensity of the incident on her luminous flux (and only the intensity – regardless of the color component). That is why most modern sensors are able to perceive our world in black and white. In order to convert and then get a black and white in color, using various “tricks”.
Bayer pattern
Bayer pattern

In most sensors, each cell is “covered” in red, blue or green filter. Filters are gathered in groups of four, with two green has one red and one blue (a type of organization of filters called “Bayer pattern”). It is made of the fact that the human eye is most sensitive to green. Each filter passes on the light-sensitive cell component mainly its light. Now each cell contains information not only on the brightness, but also about the color of the individual picture elements. It only remains to convert the electrical signal into a digital, process it and save it on a memory card or micro drive (about image storage devices will be discussed in more detail in the next chapter).

You definitely interested in how the points only red, green and blue color is obtained by full-color image? We’ll elaborate on this in the chapter on the processing of “raw” (RAW) files, as long as we confine only one (albeit long) sentence: to create a color image, camera software analyzes all received three arrays of color information, compares the values of neighboring cells and complicated algorithm calculates the final color of each cell (pixel) – a process called color interpolation.

Interpolation is an essential step in obtaining a color image, since the accuracy (and sophistication!) This process has a serious impact on the final image quality. In other words, in the struggle to improve the quality of the image interpolation process improvement is no less important than improving the quality of light-sensitive sensors.

Next, we allow ourselves a little digression about the types of sensors, which are the most impatient readers may miss without fear.
CCD sensor
The structure of the CCD-sensor
CMOS sensor
The structure of the CMOS-sensor

Sensors differ in the way that information is collected by the CCD.

In the CCD-sensor information is read sequentially from each cell, row by row. Therefore, to make the next shot can be only when the previous one is already fully formed.

CMOS-matrix are constructed differently: the information of each cell is read out individually. For each cell in the matrix are given coordinates (X, Y), and using them, you can get individual access to a single cell. This allows the use of CMOS-matrix not only directly to the shooting, but also for metering and AF operation.

Disadvantages CCD-matrix are compensated by the fact that it is more simple and economical to manufacture, but it adopted a signal less “noisy”, which facilitates its handling. (However, the recent CMOS-sensors from Canon refute conventional wisdom that the matrix of this type provide a greater “noise”.)

  • Three-layer sensor
  • Three-layer sensor

Technologies are developing continuously, and replaced by a simple single-layer sensors come sandwich. In such sensors, each photosensitive cell perceives blue, red and green at the same time a more complicated three-tier design, which allows you to determine how “deeply” every color penetrates the sensor. This technology requires no special color filters and reduces the need for color interpolation. Theoretically, a new type of matrix allows to obtain three times more information than similar-resolution sensor with a Bayer pattern. Unfortunately, this technology is still too young and not yet received proper distribution to manufacturers of digital cameras.

First Digital Camera – Staring with Digital Photography

I am a beginner. I look around. I already want to, but yet I can not. As I, not knowing the digital photography, not felt his hands and do not decorate their best shots annoying digital bruises, I can not estimate – this camera is right for me or not? And if not this, then what? What do I need something? And for some parameters, these cameras are selected? Well, one test, I know – that was nice. So they are, by and large a bill, all such kind of nowhere.

And then?
Sensor Resolution 8 megapixels
This image simulates an enlarged portion snapshot taken by the camera with a resolution of 8 megapixels.
Matrix resolution 1 megapixel
And so would look the same enlarged area of the same image, if it was made camera with a resolution of 1 megapixel.

The first thing that should look for when choosing a camera after the design of the box – how much is it squeezed into megapixels. Or megapixels. That’s how you like. Megapixel (s) may be a lot, and it is very likely means that this expensive camera can take pictures of sufficient quality that they can be printed large format. Megapixel (s) may be small, and this means that made this popular camera images will be small and neat.

How many megapixels shows how many points (pikselovpixel) contains fotomatritsasensor, which converts the lens caught the image into a digital representation. Of course, the more such points, the more qualitative results obtained and the large format, you can print a digital photography. Sensor Resolution – an objective measure, but not absolute, since the image quality is often affected by other features of the camera. In addition, the part of some manufacturers observed a tendency to muhlezhu: their vehicles are recorded in the file more pixels than the resolution allows the use of these matrices. This, of course, the image is enlarged, and its quality is deteriorating in proportion. Fall for such arapstvo hurt, so before buying an expensive camera first read the reviews of those who have already purchased. Avoid.

How to orient the camera resolution? First of all determine what exactly do you need the camera. If in order to place their pictures on the website or send a friend by email, then you have enough for the eyes democratic soap dish with a resolution of one megapixel. Made with such quality images can also print in the usual format for consumer cameras 10×15 without noticeable loss of quality.

If you set a more serious problem and intend to print your images large format and with better color rendition, without apparatus, high-resolution matrix you can not do. It is significant that the number of megapixels is directly proportional to an acceptable quality format prints. Camera with a resolution of 1,3-1,5 megapixels format printing 12h21 (approx. A5) – continue to rise.

Strictly speaking, any digital image, you can optionally print any format. Digital photography, being essentially a bitmap (multipoint) image, one way or another, loses as an increase in the picture. Increase the point makes it visible, the image as a whole then becomes grainy. The whole question is, what the print quality you consider acceptable for themselves. Therefore, the following sign relationships permit photo sensor camera and format images – this is not a law of nature, but simply averaged recommendations that can be safely used as a guide, but that does not necessarily follow up to a pixel.

This is my overall experience with digital cameras and digital photos in general!

Digital Photography Against Film Photos

To print no difference in principle, cleared a shot on film or a digital camera. And in that case and in another, the result of you or happy, or not. The first stage – shooting – and last – getting ready to print – the same for “figures”, and for normal photography. All the rules for the world, building a track and use different techniques in photography remained largely unchanged. “Numbers” – it’s just another way to achieve the same goals.

In other words – the picture is a photograph no matter what camera it was obtained.
What’s the difference?

* “Digit” allows you to control the correctness of the exposure (and composition) after each shot using the LCD screen and camera tools – such as a bar chart (see next chapter).
* Digital cameras consume more power (the batteries have to charge more).
* Most digital cameras have a rather narrow latitude (as a slide).
* The long trip you will have to take care of the devices for image storage (see chapter “From the camera to the computer).

Megapixels are not only on account of

People are used to measure the quality of anything on a digital scale on which “more” – it means “better.” On this scale we find that 5 million pixels certainly better than 4 million pixels. Is this true?

This is certainly true if the pixels in the first and second cases are the same. It is here lies the main difference between professional cameras from consumer cameras (consumer cameras). In the mass consumer camera sensors are smaller than in the professional (and themselves as less camera), and hence an equal number of pixels the physical size of the photosensitive cells (pixels) is also smaller. Smaller cells have a lower sensitivity, which results in more “noise” (optical distortions due to errors in light-sensitive cells).

In addition, as in conventional photography, great importance is the quality of optics, the resolution of which determines the quality of the captured image. Consumer cameras initially have the worst lenses than cameras with interchangeable lenses.

Thus, when choosing a digital photography to take into account not only the number of megapixels. And if you’re looking for a camera, but it’s not very trust your experience, you may be useful to know, what yardsticks we recommend that approach to what you will be offered in the store.

Why Choose Digital Photography

Frankly, the issue of “Switching to a digital cameras or not?” We never really wondered..

We started shooting in 80 years – “analog” Soviet cameras “Zenith” and “Change”. Then the Soviet Union is gone, and his passing came to us now – it’s time good optics and professional cameras. Our first unit was a professional Canon EOS 5 – I must say we were lucky in this regard. Despite the fact that we traveled a lot and the camera was always with us, she never let us let down. Yes, and optics from Canon is also remarkable. Then came the Nikon F100, which Dima took with the underwater shooting …

In these cells we are satisfied with almost everything, but when we started studio shooting, we realized that without a “medium format” will not do – he gives the figure and the number of semitones that with the possibilities of a narrow film simply incompatible … We chose the Contax 645 and a few discrete lenses (perfect optics from Carl Zeiss). Then we bought a digital back for Contax – MegaVision c resolution of 4 million. (Oh, this is not the 4 million that is now available at almost every amateur camera … but more on that later.)

Having the backdrop and setting for our Mac all the programs, we began experimenting in earnest. Tried a variety of lighting schemes – and the camera gave us the opportunity to immediately see and evaluate the result. Built the track could sharpen and bring a step-by-step. Then we even bought an old mannequin, because no living model would not stand these digital bullying.

The main and the main advantage of numbers – the result is visible immediately.

It is very convenient. For example, if the portrait (the model) shooting model blinked or were “caught” is not the best facial expressions, such images can be immediately identified and removed. You can check how it will look in the picture make-up, if that – to correct it. Immediately after the shooting, we can show model, all options are taken and together choose the best …
St. Maarten, Netherlands Antilles 2001 In the process of shooting

But it attracts us, not only shooting in the studio – in fact in the world so many places worth visiting and shoot (in another section of the website we will tell you about interesting places to film). In the long trips we were shooting on film, more often on the slide (narrow and medium format). Before the trip had to buy a large number of reversal film (which is not cheap), do not forget to hide it on the road from the scorching sun, then take the exposed film for processing, praying that it is not spoiled and have not lost (Film development slides too cheap). Then we scanned it (you need a special film scanner – with good resolution and, of course, expensive), processed and printed.

All of these problems immediately disappeared as soon as we have to take with you “figure”. First shot on Contax c backdrop, then a Nikon D100 (6 megapixels). For underwater shooting the same camera, we used the box. And just recently gone back to engineering and optics, Canon – 1Ds and moved to feel “at home”. Still, you can not forget your first love …

Big possibilities of digital photography opens up in processing and printing. Wrong are those who think that the image processing computer “kills creativity.” The creative process is just painful (if not more – the computer gives the photographer greater variety of instruments and their combinations). But the easier solution of many purely technical tasks, for example, it is easier to remove pimple face, speck on the lens. With digital photography the original image – this is only the first third of the work. His, as in conventional photography, still need to properly handle and printed correctly.

But if the color film may pereproyavit in the laboratory, and finished color photos to drive into some exotic color, digital processing and printing is always in your control. The obtained results can be repeated many times without fear that the outcome will affect the quality of reagents. And printers are now becoming more sophisticated …

In short, we believe that the alternative to “figure” is not.

Of course, our choice is only our experience. Everyone eventually chooses for himself. Our task – to help those who have already opted for digital photography, more confident to go on this way.

Histogramma of Digital Photos

Digital cameras give the owner an effective tool for monitoring the captured image. Besides the opportunity to see the captured image on the display and visually assess the quality, many cameras allow you to view a histogram of the captured image. The histogram is a chart where the horizontal scale laid shades of gray from 0 (black) to 255 (white), and the vertical axis – the number of points corresponding to a gradation in the image. The higher the column, the more points of the corresponding shades of gray found in the photo.

To make you a better understanding of how we display histograms of different images, we present a few photos, and treat each histogram.
Example 1 [photo]
Example 1 [histogram]
On this histogram, more dark colors, so she shifted to the left. Bursts characterize the high-contrast images
Example 2 [photos]
Example 2 [histogram]
There are no spikes – this photo is less contrast. But the dynamic range is narrow – all semitones are concentrated on the left side

Example 3 [photo]
Example 3 [histogram]
In this picture the dynamic range is much wider, so the histogram is stretched almost the entire length and shifted to the right, as the bright sky dominates
Example 4 [photos]
Example 4 [histogram]
Preponderance of light colors in this picture leads to the fact that the histogram is shifted to the right. Spikes are almost no, indicating that smooth tone transitions

Example 5 [photo]
Example 5 [histogram]
The histogram of this picture is close to ideal. But remember that the ideal histogram does not mean a perfect result. It says only that the undertones of this image is not cropped, not lost, and creates smooth tonal transitions
Example 6 [photos]
Example 6 [histogram]
Is it always necessary to aspire to the “correct” histogram? Here is a histogram, in principle, wrong – it is very compressed. But the image does not suffer from this, because here the main mood, not the number of tonal transitions

Of course, control of the histogram is useful only if the frame can be repeated – say, if you shoot a model, a landscape or still life. More difficult if the subject – a cheetah, late on a date with an antelope …

Still, in most cases, the histogram is useful. Even in modern cameras metering is not always accurate (especially in difficult shooting conditions), and the display is too small to make on it can be confidently taken to evaluate the frame – and, especially, find the error in the exposition. And then it comes to the aid of a histogram that is easy to see overexposure or underexposure image and enter the necessary correction in the next frame.

In any case – do not neglect the benefits that gives you a digital camera.

What You Need to Know About Optical Zoom

Suppose the matrix and megapixels we have identified. We now turn to the lens – the very same device that provides images hit by a matrix.

High-quality optics – is the main condition for obtaining high-quality picture. Through a bad lens you good images do not get it. Of course, in optics must be used right glass, cameras with plastic lenses to eliminate from consideration immediately and unconditionally.

The second aspect of choice is more complicated and less subject to regulation – the possibility of the zoom lens on the image. Zoom (“zoom”) – this increase is in the field shooting the subject by means of the lens. Removing, for example, a portrait of a man, you can just go up to him close enough, but most lenses are not allowed to shoot close-ups without image distortion: the portrait is obtained disproportionate increase in the nose, travel to the side of his eyes, his face looks bloated, and the forehead – low. Using the zoom (in other words – the optical “zoom” on the subject) can be from all this trouble to get rid and get a large and undistorted image. In addition, the zoom allows you to plan and fun to play scales, combining in a single frame objects that are at different distances from the lens – for example, to shoot a silhouette of a man who completely fit against the huge full moon. Without using a powerful zoom, do a similar picture is simply impossible.

Transfokatsionnye camera parameters are determined by the multiplicity factor of the zoom – that is, by how much the lens can increase hitting the CCD image. Standard zoom ratio – 3 or 4 (triple or quadruple), and some very powerful cameras and provide a tenfold increase.

Availability zoom markedly improves the camera, so we recommend that you check whether your device of the wanted nice feature.

In this case, note that we are talking about optical rather than digital zoom (which is “digital zoom”). Digital zoom – is nothing more than software “stretching” of images on the entire matrix. This occurs, in contrast to the optical zoom, always with a loss of image quality, so digital optical zoom does not replace and is present in the chamber only as a minor additional features.

We summarize the above: make sure that the optics of your choice through the camera’s zoom lens provides a factor of not less than 3. If your camera offers and digital zoom, it’s nice, but not mandatory addition to the basic characteristics of the device.

Different Sizes of Digital Photo Cameras

Of course, for some buyers impressive size of the camera is the main argument in favor of its purchase. In memory immediately comes an anecdote about a new Russian who chose his long watch, eyeing a Big Benu, and bought in the end, tower floor monster with kukukanem and paravoznym whistle. Type, it’s cool.

It is for these men, there are digital cameras, which optionally can leg it even from the Tyrannosaurus rex.

Other users, inspired, apparently, the James Bond films, flow into the other extreme. Looking at these, never think that they have with them is something like a camera. Conventional digital camera includes at least some extent. In all of these planes. Their camera so compact that does not bulge even a shirt pocket.

However, cameras do not usually buy and then to fight their enemies, or to hide them carefully. A normal person buys a camera to take pictures. To this end, the camera must be large or small – it must be comfortable and functional. Therefore, too weighty and heavy cameras, although give the owner certain technical advantages for carrying with them appropriately and uncomfortable look at the studio tripod. JDN Ultra-camera, in turn, can not provide a sufficiently flexible control of optics and either do not allow zooming, or admit, but in its infancy. And this, as we have already established, not too good. In addition, for all the compactness of the current technology, too little body can not fit many important and interesting parts …

The average user is generally quite happy with the camera of moderate size – small enough so that without exorbitant effort to carry it with them, and enough volume to contain all the necessary technical equipment. Many existing models of cameras now completely fit into a jacket pocket and / or do not overburden their owners, swinging on a strap or lace. They easily controlled, they quickly discovered when needed, and allow yourself to forget about when the owner is busy with something else.

When buying a camera, and then consider the conditions under which you operate it. For example, if you’re going to go with the camera on hikes, you should consider buying the unit to a well-protected from damage and moisture body – and so on.

Digital Camera Memory Card

Most of the available cameras now record the captured images on removable cards of any type. Some of the existing model works only with its own built-in memory – such devices are less flexible and do not allow, for example, to quickly change “under way” filled the memory on a new or larger hard-coded memory. Apparently, it is necessary to prefer when buying a more flexible option with removable cards.

Memory devices for digital cameras is now booming – now available memory cards up to 4 gigabytes, although until recently considered a great achievement of a 128-megabyte card (and for a time when pictures from the camera to the computer being rushed through a three-inch floppy disk, now and remember- it is ridiculous). Using the new flash cards in your machine, you can, thanks to sharply increase its memory – and hence the quantity and quality of images that can make and save. By the way, to assess “snimkoemkost” flash card on its volume easily: if we take the approximate volume of a high-quality images in JPEG format up to 1 megabyte (which roughly corresponds to reality), then the amount indicated on the map megabyte its capacity as the time and represents the number of shots that it can “hold” …

PCMCIA card type suitable for laptop users, who are often equipped with a PCMCIA-slot, the card can simply be rearranged from the device into a computer that will accept it as a new storage device. This is convenient, but because of the relatively large size of PCMCIA-cards are used mostly in a rather “advanced” professional SLR cameras. More compact and sophisticated devices use flash cards.

Compact Flash card format available in two types – the so-called Type I and Type II. The difference between these types of linear dimensions (Type II card slightly thicker) and a potential capacity (Type II card contain more memory). Flash cards type I are now, perhaps, the most common storage devices for digital cameras, but with a reduction in price of flash cards of the second type may change.

Currently, a fairly widespread memory cards and other standards: SD card, MMC, XD-picture card, Memory Stick. SD card is an alternative format CF cards, and sometimes used in some professional photo and video cameras. XD-picture card and Memory Stick got its widely used due to the popularity of amateur cameras from manufacturers such as Olympus and Sony, promoting their own standards of cards. There are also other standards for memory cards.

Flash card can be removed from the camera and transfer it to the data to a computer via an adapter that connects directly to your computer (via the PCMCIA-slot or port USB); with a special reader (card reader) through the use of external storage (digital photo album or digital wallet). And you can just connect your camera to your computer and work with images, all without removing the flash card from the camera.

The Arrival of Kodak Industry And All Their Digital Cameras

In the late 1870′s the American George Eastman, a young bank clerk and enthusiastic amateur photographer, began in the kitchen of his mother the night experimenting with gelatin emulsion.
In 1880 in Rochester, New York, he opened a production of dry plates, based on its formula. Eastman continued to tinker with their emulsions, and in 1885 he patented the invention of machines, which covers the emulsion of long rolls of paper.
Three years later, Eastman announced camera Kodak. Under the advertising slogan “You push the button – we do the rest” it was sold at a price of 25 dollars, has already equipped 20-foot roll of film, which is enough for 100 frames. (A year later, Eastman has replaced the paper roll celluloid film.) After all the footage was filmed, the client sends back to the company Eastman entire apparatus as a whole. There showed the film, print photos and tucked into the chamber a new roll of film, after which the camera, the printed photos and negatives sent back to the owner.

Eastman continued to refine his camera, letting all the smaller and technologically advanced options. He managed to reduce the cost of the camera up to $ 5 – good value for the time, but Eastman was determined to release a product that could afford one. And in 1900 he finally fulfilled his dream – to give the camera into the hands of anyone who wants to press the trigger, firing chamber Brownie.

This camera is sold for just $ 1 and filmed that cost 15 cents.
The first Kodak camera filmed much larger than what we use now, since both reagents, and the optics of that time were primitive. Over time, the emulsion and the lenses were improved, and the need to shoot on film is larger size to get acceptable image quality anymore.

* Kodak DC220 Pro Edition

Kodak DC260 Pro Edition Kodak EOS-DCS 1 – converted Canon EOS-1N, released 1997.

* DCS 300 series – converted Nikon Pronea, released 1999.
* DCS 400 series – converted Nikon N90s, released 1994.
* DCS 500 series – converted Canon EOS-1N, released 1999.
* DCS 600 series – converted Nikon F5, released 1999.
* DCS 700 series – converted Nikon F5, released 2001.
* DCS Pro Back – for various medium format cameras.
* DCS Pro 14n – world’s first full-frame 135 film-sized sensor, with 14 megapixels.
* DCS Pro SLR/n – Single lens reflex camera compatible with Nikon lenses
* DCS Pro SLR/c – Single lens reflex camera compatible with Canon EOS lenses.

Kodak DC-Series

DC-Series Cameras were the earliest consumer digital cameras released. For more details, see Kodak DC Series

* DC20
* DC25
* DC40
* DC50
* DC120
* DC200
* DC200 Plus
* DC210
* DC210 Plus
* DC215
* DC220
* DC240
* DC260
* DC265
* DC280
* DC290
* DC3200
* DC3400
* DC3800
* DC4800
* DC5000

Kodak EasyShare DX-Series

The DX series cameras were the first EasyShare models released, beginning with the DX3215. It was originally a very basic point and shoot camera series, compatible with the original EasyShare Camera Dock. The CX series eventually replaced the lower-end DX models, and the newer DX-Series models had more advanced features and higher megapixel resolutions and zoom. The DX series is now discontinued. The higher-end of the DX-Series (higher zoom, megapixel) eventually became the Z-Series. Select DX models were the last Kodak consumer digital cameras to use CompactFlash external memory cards.

* DX3215: 1.3 megapixel, 4× zoom (2× optical + 2× digital)
* DX3500:
* DX3600:
* DX3700:
* DX3900: 3 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* DX4330:
* DX4530: 5 megapixel, 10× zoom (3× optical), successor to DX4330
* DX4900: 4 megapixel, 3× optical zoom, successor to DX3900
* DX6340: 3.1 megapixel, 4× zoom
* DX6440: 4 megapixel, 4× zoom, successor to DX6340
* DX6490: 4 megapixel, 10× optical zoom
* DX7440: 4 megapixel, 4× zoom
* DX7590: 5 megapixel, 10× zoom, successor to the DX6490
* DX7630: 6 megapixel, 3× zoom

Kodak EasyShare CX-Series
A Kodak EasyShare CX7530

The CX series is now discontinued, replaced by the C series. The CX series grew out of the DX series. At the time, it was the range of the lowest-priced, most basic point and shoot cameras, typically with no more than a 3× optical zoom.

* CX4200:
* CX4210:
* CX4230: 2 megapixel, 3× zoom
* CX4300:
* CX4310:
* CX6200:
* CX6230:
* CX6330:
* CX6445:
* CX7220: 2 megapixel, 2× zoom
* CX7300: 3.2 megapixel, fixed focal length lens
* CX7310:
* CX7330: 3.1 megapixel, 3× zoom
* CX7430: 4 megapixel, 3× zoom
* CX7525:
* CX7530: 5 megapixel, 3× zoom

Kodak EasyShare LS-Series

The LS series was the first EasyShare range to emphasize small form factor, pocket-size cameras. The LS series has now been discontinued. It has been replaced by the V-Series cameras that emphasize small, stylish design with advanced features. Select LS-series models used custom docks.

* Kodak EasyShare LS420
* Kodak EasyShare LS443
* Kodak EasyShare LS633
* Kodak EasyShare LS7434 megapixel, 2.8× zoom
* Kodak EasyShare LS7535 megapixel, 2.8× zoom
* Kodak EasyShare LS755

Kodak EasyShare C-Series

The C series is the current point-and-shoot series for entry-level digital camera owners, replacing the CX series. CD and CW models are simply derivatives of mainstream C series models.

* C190: 11.8 megapixel, 5x optical zoom
* C300: 3.2 megapixel, fixed focal length lens
* C310: 4 megapixel, fixed focal length lens
* C315: 5 megapixel, 5× digital zoom
* C330: 4 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C340: 5 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C360: 5 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C433: 4 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C503: 5 megapixel, 3x optical zoom
* C513: 5 megapixel, 3x optical zoom
* C530: 5 megapixel, fixed focal length lens
* C533: 5 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C603:
* C633: 6.1 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C643: 6.1 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C653: 6.1 megapixel, zoom
* C663: 6.1 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C713: 8 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* C703: 7.1 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* C743: 7.1 megapixel, 3× zoom
* C763: 7.1 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* C813: 8.2 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* C875: 8 megapixel, 5× optical zoom, 5× digital zoom
* C913:

Kodak EasyShare Z-Series

The Z-Series is the current high-zoom and performance-oriented range of consumer digital cameras, replacing the original DX series.

* Z700: 4 megapixel, 5× optical zoom
* Z730: 5 megapixel, 4× optical zoom, successor to the DX7440
* Z740: 5 megapixel, 10× optical zoom
* Z760: 6.1 megapixel, 3× optical zoom, successor to the DX7630
* Z7590: 5 megapixel, 10× zoom, successor to the DX7590
* Z612: 6.1 megapixel, 12× optical zoom with optical image stabilization
* Z650: 6.1 megapixel 10× optical zoom
* Z710: 7 megapixel, 10× optical zoom
* Z712 IS: 7 megapixel, 12× optical zoom with optical image stabilization, successor to the Z612 (2007.3)
* Z812 IS: 8 megapixel, 12× optical zoom with optical image stabilization and HD video(1280×720), successor to the Z712 (2007.8)
* Z8612 IS: 8 megapixel, 12× optical zoom with optical image stabilization (2008.1)
* Z1012 IS: 10 megapixel, 12× optical zoom with optical image stabilization and HD video, successor to the Z812 (2008.6)
* Z1015 IS: 10 megapixel, 15× optical zoom with optical image stabilization and HD video (2008.8)
* Z980: 12 megapixel, 24× optical zoom (26~624mm equivalent) with optical image stabilization and HD video , Have hot shoe(2009.3)
* Z981: 14 megapixel, 26× optical zoom with optical image stabilization and HD video, but no hot shoe[1]
* Z885: 8 megapixel, 5× optical zoom, high ISO range up to 8000
* Z1275: 12 megapixel, 5× optical zoom and HD video, successor to the C875 (2007.6)
* Z1285: 12 megapixel, 5× optical zoom and HD video (2008.1)
* Z1085 IS: 10 megapixel, 5× optical zoom with optical image stabilization and HD video, successor to the Z1275 (2008.1)
Kodak EasyShare V-Series

The V-Series is the current style-oriented range of consumer digital cameras, replacing the original LS series. V-Series had a number of innovations, such as dual-lens technology.

* V530: 5 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* V550: 5 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* V570: 5 megapixel, world-first dual lens digital camera: very wide-angle (23 mm) plus 3× optical zoom forming a virtual 5× zoom
* V603: 6 megapixel, 3× zoom: 10× optical zoom, similar in size to V530, with similar controls as V550, first sold Feb 2006 [2], lens by Schneider-Kreuznach
* V610: 6 megapixel, dual lens: 10× optical zoom
* V705: 7 megapixel, dual lens: very wide-angle (23 mm) plus 3× optical zoom forming a virtual 5× zoom, successor to the V570
* V803: 8 megapixel, 3× optical zoom, 2.5″ LCD screen (8MP version of V1003)
* V1003: 10 megapixel, 3× optical zoom, 2.5″ LCD screen (10MP version of V803)
* V1073: 10 megapixel, 3× optical Image Stabilized lens, 3″ Touch screen (10MP version of V1273)
* V1233: 12 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* V1253: 12 megapixel, 3× optical zoom
* V1273: 12 megapixel, 3× optical Image Stabilized lens, 3″ Touch screen (12MP version of V1073)

Kodak EasyShare P-Series

The P-Series was Kodak’s performance series which has recently been discontinued in favor of higher-end Z-series models. These were the only consumer models to leverage an external flash (the Kodak P20 Zoom Flash).

* P712: 7 megapixel, 12× image stabilised zoom, replacing the P850
* P850: 5 megapixel, 12× image stabilised zoom (2005)
* P880: 8 megapixel, 5.7× wide zoom (24-140mm in 35mm equivalent) (2005)

Kodak EasyShare-One Series

The EasyShare-One series were the first consumer Wi-Fi Digital Cameras, that used an SDIO card to automatically upload pictures in wi-fi hotspots. The EasyShare-One series is now discontinued.

* Kodak EASYSHARE-ONE / 6 MP
* Kodak EASYSHARE-ONE / 4 MP

Kodak EasyShare M-Series

The EasyShare M series are a blend between point-and-shoot cameras (C series) and thin and stylish cameras (V series). They are usually available in a variety of colors.

* M883
* M873
* M853
* M753
* M1033
* M763

Other Kodak Digital Cameras

* EZ200
* mc³ Portable Multimedia Device this device played mp3 music in addition to being a digital camera.

Kodak DVC-Series Cameras

The DVC-Series were digital video cameras (web-cams) that took low-resolution pictures and video and attached to a computer via USB. DVC cameras are discontinued.

* DVC300
* DVC323
* DVC325

Kodak PalmPix-Series Cameras

PalmPix cameras attached to a Palm PDA device, and took low-resolutions pictures. PalmPix cameras are discontinued.

* PalmPix for the Palm M100 & M105
* PalmPix for the Palm M500
* PalmPix for the Palm III series of PDAs